Keweenaw Peninsula
It is a three hour drive from Gladstone to the Keweenaw Peninsula, but it was worth it This peninsula extends about 65 miles into Lake Superior on the northwest side of the Upper Peninsula. It is known for the Copper Country mining history during the 1840s to the 1960s.
There is a driving tour on the Action Tour Guide that we used to tour the peninsula. The tour starts at the Portage Canal Lift Bridge in Houghton Michigan. This bridge connects the peninsula with the main land. There is a water way that separates from one end of Lake Superior to the Keweenaw Bay. This actually makes the peninsula and island!
We drove along Highway 41 and followed the coastline of Keweenaw Bay. The views were spectacular
The copper boon in the peninsula was huge. There were many copper mines throughout the peninsula. We started with the Quincy Mine located on the hill just across the bridge. Then the tour took us to Eagle Harbor where the indigenous American Indians mined for copper before the settlers arrive.
Prospectors Paradise
The audio tour recommended that we stop at Prospectors Paradise. This is a rock shop and museum near Allouez Township. They had many interesting rocks and fossiles as well as things to buy.
There were rows and rows of rocks on shelves in the museum as well as a history of the mining in the area. You could also purchase stones. There were Petoskey stones that glowed when put under a black light, various Michigan stones as well as petrified dinosaur dung!
Behind the Prospectors Paradise, there was an area known as the Keweenaw Vortex. It is a Native American burial ground and there are underground rivers beneath. It is believed that silver, copper and other minerals flow in these underground rivers. Some say this combo creates a spot bursting with Earth’s natural energy. It is believed that in the vortex, you can see the dead and you can have any illness cured.
There is a magical cedar tree covered in large knots. If you are feeling under the weather, stand in the tree limbs and place your hands on two of the knots. Local legend says you will be cured.
I will admit that both Sandy and myself could feel the presence of some energy. I could feel it in my chest. We placed our hands on the cedar knots and I also did a little meditation. Did not see any dead people, but it was invigorating!
We stopped at Eagle River Falls, which is considered one of the best waterfalls in Keweenaw. There is a nice parking lot just past the falls so we could walk over to view it. I was also impressed with the wooden bridge we crossed over with the car.
Keneewan Snow Thermometer
This snow stick in snow Gauge Park is used to show the snow level. It goes up to 35 feet. It has to be that tall to accommodate the record snow fall of 32 ½ feet in 1978. The County Road Commission is responsible to track the snow level and move the arrow up each year. (They hit 30 feet last year)
We turned off Highway 41 onto M26 to drive along the western shoreline of the peninsula. It took us to Eagle River Falls. There was a parking lot right past the falls for us to stop and take some photos.
Eagle River Falls
This is one of the best waterfalls in the peninsula. The falls comes down from a dam bult in 1862 to power the Lake Superior Fuse Company.
The Lakeshore Drive Bridge is now a pedestrian bridge used to view the falls. It was built in 1915. I was impressed with the timber bridge built in 1990 right next to it.
Jampot Bakery
This bakery opened in 1986 by monks from the Holy Protection Monastery (just behind the bakery). Even though they take a vow of silence, they are allowed to talk to sell jams, brownies, cookies and muffins. Yum! I got a pumpkin muffin and sandy got a pecan brittle.
Jacob Falls was just past the Jampot Bakery, but water levels were low and it was only a trickle. However, it can be quite big. In 1971, there was a flash flood and it took out the Great Northern Hotel that was located across the road from it. It broke th hotel clear in half and washed part of it down the river.
Great Sand Bay
This is one of the largest stretches of beach on the Keweenaw Peninsula. Great place to walk around and look for rocks.
Eagle Harbor
This town founded in 1844, is where the “butter boat wreck” happened. In 1929 a ship carrying a large amount of butter (and cats) shipwrecked. Both the butter and the cats came ashore. (The cats started a new population of wild cats).
The entire coastline we drove so far is part of the Keweenaw Underwater Preserve. There are over 26 shipwrecks in this area. This location on the south edge of Lake Superior and the unpredictable weather is the reason for so many shipwrecks.
Brockway Mountain is named after the first settlers of Keweenaw. They built a home in Copper Harbor. We took a drive up Brockway Mountain Drive. This road was made in 1933 as part of the depression work programs. They did not have any machinery, just horses and manual labor. The drive up to the summit was easy ans well paved. We enjoyed all the fall color, especially at the summit.
Brockway Mountain Summit
We drove M26 all the way to Copper Harbor. Here we met up with Highway 41 again. We drove on 41 until it came to a dead end. This is actually the beginning of Highway 41. This Highway is about 2000 miles long. You can drive it all the way to Miami Florida! It passes through eight states and major cities like Milwaukee, Chicago, Nashville and Atlanta. I think I have driven on most of this highway during my lifetime.
We drove back to Copper Harbor. Many of the business were closed for the season. but we were able to find a place to try the pasties.
Pasties - This is what the miners would eat when they went down into the mines. They were not able to come up for lunch and there was not much room to pack a lunch. Many of these miners were Cornish immigrants. Their wives knew exactly what to make for the men to take into the mines: pasties. A Cornish pastie is basically a large pocket sized hand pie. they are stuffed with meat and vegetables. Around the edge they they have a rolled pie crust. This allowed the miners to hold onto the pasty by the rolled crust and eat the rest of the pie without having to worry about contamination from mine dirt and dust. They would simply throw away the crust.
Now I will admit, I was never a fan of pasties. I never liked the crust. It was always too dry and chewed. Now I know why! I also learned that pasties are served with ketchup or gravy. Traditionally you should choose ketchup, gravy is for the tourist.
Wise Old Man
This little shop had a cafe and sold pasties. They had many kinds of pasties here. Sandy got the breakfast pastie with egg, ham and potatoes. I got the traditional pastie with beef, lamb, potaotes and vegetables.
As we left Copper Harbor, we took Highway 41 back towards Houghton. There is a stretch of road called Covered Drive. This is a designated Scenic Heritage Route starting back in Copper Harbor until you reach Delaware. The thick forest was full of fall color and made the drive simply magical.
Gay Bar
Just south of Delaware is the town of Gay. There was not a mine here, but it was a stamp mill town. However it is more known for the sign for the local bar. “The most photographed sign in the UP”
Our next stop was at Calumet. This was the most important town in all of Copper Country. It was so populated, that is was most the capitol of Michigan. We found a place to park downtown Calumet and walked around the historic district. This town was originally called Red Shirt. Many of the businesses still reference this in their names.
We wanted to stop in to Shute’s Saloon, the oldest continually operating bar int he state of Michigan, but it was closed while we were there. There are many historic buildings here. One if them is the Italian Hall. A tragedy happened here when someone yelled “fire” during a Christmas Party with 600 union families attending. 14 adults and 59 children lost their lives. The doors at the bottom of the staircase were never ed opened and the bodies just piled up there. The case was never solved. It is rumered the person yelling “fire” is said to have an anti-union pin and was sent by the mining bosses.
